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Since its launch in 2024, Adopted Acres Soap Co. has made a big splash in the wet shaving community with its innovative products. We were lucky enough to catch up with one of the founders, Doug Layne, and hear some of his incredible story. Adopted Acres was started by Doug and his wife, Cara, who together have 6 children, all of which are adopted (hence the name of their farm), all of whom have disabilities. When not running the business, Cara is a Special Education Teacher, and Doug does custodial work, has a small sharpening business, and helps on the farm. Theirs is a beautiful story of hope, love, and of course, soap. Here's Doug.... On your Etsy store you tell a story about how after sharpening a straight razor for someone you started researching wet shaving and fell down the rabbit hole. Can you share with us the journey of your research? Where did it start and where did it take you? So being asked to sharpen this first straight razor is what truly got me into traditional shaving. After teaching myself how to hone straight razors it was time to test the edge. There is only one way to do so if you don’t have a microscope to look at the edge. Which at the time I did not. In my research of learning how to hone razors I also discovered this thing called shaving soap. Which I had never heard of before. It Intrigued me. So, I bought a cheap brush and bowl from Amazon and tried to lather my Strike Gold Shave Honest Abe. This definitely got my attention. So much better than the goop and gel I was using before. I got the straight razor shave down fairly quickly and by the time I bought my second shave soap, Ariana & Evans Empyrean Bay Rum, down the rabbit hole I fell!! As you did the research, what is it that piqued your interest about wet shaving? What made you fall in love with it? Immediately for me it became the ritual of the shave. I’m a father of 6. All of our kids are adopted and 5 of them are still at home, all of whom have special needs. They range from ages 20-2. Getting time for yourself is next to impossible. I used to go on walks and do some woodworking in my garage. Now with the addition of the last few kiddos, that just isn’t possible anymore. When I discovered the traditional wet shave, that became my time. The other part that made me fall in love with it is the use of straight razors. If I’m using a DE razor or an SE razor I can pretty much go on auto pilot and still fill my brain with all the things going on around me. When I use a straight, it forces me to be in the moment. Right there with that razor. It’s all about the shave. There’s no outside noise taking my attention way. Just me and that razor. Paying attention to where the blade is at all times. A lot of people joke about being in the wet shaving rabbit hole. What does being in the rabbit hole mean to you? Is it true that you have a whole closet dedicated to shaving gear? Being in the rabbit hole to me means that this hobby consumes me. And it does. I’ve pretty much given up on knife collecting. I’ve actually sold a lot of them to pay for this new hobby. If I’m not researching making soap, then I’m looking at a razor. It’s all I do in my spare time. I also watch a ton of YouTube videos by some of the Wetshaving content creators. I’ve even collaborated on soap projects with a few of them. Yes, I have a whole closet that is my shave den. I’ve lost count of shave soaps. But I love to support all the artisans. I love trying new bases and seeing what scents are driving the market.   Can you share with us a bit about your own shave routine? What kind of razors, soap and splash do you use? Do you sometimes wear fragrances? I typically shave after a shower. Before I get in I soak a brush. Doesn’t matter if it’s natural or synthetic. It’s just a habit. As far as soap, sometimes I scoop into a bowl, sometimes I load straight from the tub. As far as razors. I’d say most of the time I go for a mild razor like a Henson with a super sharp blade like a Kai or feather. There are the times though where an R41 is what I’m really wanting. It just depends on my mood. Most shaves on the weekend are with a straight razor. I know I can take my time and just be in the moment on these. As far as fragrances go, those were my first love. My favorite house is Zaharoff, but I have plenty of others. I always use a fragrance of some sort after I shave. What made you decide to try your hand at making shave soaps and fragrances? So making soaps kind of came out of a place of curiosity and a thought of something to do with my daughters. Here I was into this shave thing. This new hobby. I’d get soaps in and my daughters would love to smell them with me. I noticed one of my daughters had an excellent nose! She’s visibly impaired, so this made sense. She literally smells almost anything she gets her hands on. So, after some discussion we thought we would try making soap. We started off just doing melt and pour soaps. Pretty simple. Buy a chunk of premade soap designed for microwaving. You melt it, add colors, and fragrance and pour it into molds. We did this well over a year. Just having fun. At some point in the venture I tried making a shave soap out of these products. This wasn’t easy, as you are limited to how much other stuff you can put into this premade base. Eventually it just doesn’t function as soap anymore. I truly believe it was this part of all these mini successes and mostly failures that’s taught me so much about soap making. I learned what you could, and most important, what you could not add to soap. Making shave soaps and fragrances isn't easy. How did you learn about the manufacturing process, the ingredients, and the different fragrance profiles? Like most I learned soap making online and in some books I bought. The time spent with melt and pour soaps was also so valuable. To be honest, the whole part of messing with lye scared me a bit. Especially with my kids around. I actually ended up making a really good melt and pour soap. We almost brought it to the market. It’s an all vegan base and really only lacks protection and cushion. But it’s plenty of slick and has a great list shave. We live on a beef farm. My father in law and brother farm full time and raise angus cattle for beef. My sister came to me one day and asked if I could use any beef suet. This is the fat around all the organs, and the most nutrient rich part when making tallow. I of course said sure, I can use that. This is really when Adopted Acres soap co was born. I started to learn the ins and outs of using lye. This is where my shave soaps and all the Knowledge learned from melt and pour all came together. When you were designing your soap base, did you have a specific goal in mind? How and why did you select the ingredients you used? Similarly, how did you decide on what ingredients to use in your splash? I did! Since I had access to beef suet on the farm, all I had to do is render it down for fresh tallow. So, I know I wanted a tallow rich formula. I also wanted a more creamy consistency in the lather. So this where the lard comes in handy. Throw in a lot of Stearic Acid and you are off to a great start. The olive oil and avocado oil help with the post shave feel. So all in all I think we’ve come up with a well balanced and cushioning lather. As far as the splash this is not something we make in house. I have a supplier I get my splash from. We just add our fragrance to it. This is something we hope to make in house in the future though. So far, I've only tried Homestead Barbershop, but one of the things that amazes me is its uniqueness. How did you come up with that fragrance? Barbershop scents have always been my favorites in the shaving world. So, this has been a work in progress for a while. I’d try one and try to figure if this was a specific oil the artisan was using, or something that was built from the ground up. Over time you start to figure out where these oils are coming from. This one here is a specific combination blend of 2 popular barbershop scents in the shaving community, that to my knowledge have never been combined like we did. I think they blend together very well. What do you think are the hallmarks of a good smelling fragrance? Where do you get your inspiration? Are there any soap or fragrance makers that have influenced you or that you admire? For me a good fragrance needs to take you on a journey or bring back specific memories. That’s what I look for. The thing about scent (I would also put music in this category), is that a good scent, a good song , those can totally just change your mood. You can be having a terrible day, smell a good scent and all is well. At least for me. My Inspirations comes from multiple places. They’ve come from journeys I’ve traveled, friends I’ve chatted with, and even places I’d like to go. As far as influences? So many. When it comes to soap making I’ve always admired Ariana & Evans. Peter has some of the best soaps out there. As far as scents, I love Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements and Barrister & Mann because they are always thinking outside the box which is what I try to do as well. If we are talking perfumes then I take admiration in Zaharoff. I’ve never smelled anything George Zaharoff made that I did not like. I read that your family plays a big role in the Adopted Acres Soap Company. How do you divide up work among everyone. Does everyone have a specific job? All my kids are adopted (hence the name), and they all have disabilities. It has been a goal and dream of ours to make sure our children can have meaningful employment somewhere at some point in their adult lives. My wife, who is a special education teacher, has always said “I’ll get the kids through school, you’re in charge when they are done.” This of course is a joke, but I’ve always seen it as something to work towards as well. So this soap making adventure will hopefully be something we can employ them at and others who are disabled as well. Hannah and Mila, my two oldest girls love to help pack the boxes with the products. Eli does as well, but he grumbles a bit more than they do. Our 4 year old Donna is learning to write her name so her job is to just help fill out Thank You cards and sign her name. She assists me or my wife in packing things up. Mila also almost always controls the music while we work, a very important job. Eli’s favorite job is to run the vacuum sealer when we vacuum seal our shave splashes. He has that process down. I think at some point I can even get Hannah to help making the soap. She’s just not quite ready yet. If your dream for Adopted Acres Soap Company were to come true, what would it look like? Ultimately, this would be a store in our small town of Ashville, Ohio where we can make soap, and have a store front to sell our products and other artisan items. I’d love to not only employ our own children if they choose to, but others with disabilities. This is what I would love to see Adopted Acres Soap Co become someday.

Jen Slagle is the owner of Mama Bear Soaps in Felch on the beautiful upper peninsula of Michigan. She is 47, and runs a farm with her husband of 27 years, Jason, who together have 3 children, Cody 25, Justin 22, and Lauren 18. Jen is a self-starter who throws herself into her work and when not running Mama Bear Soaps works on her farm which is home to poultry, cows, a donkey named Jackson, 2 dogs, 3 cats and has a variety of produce and plants. She apprenticed under the fist Mama Bear, Susan Clark, then took over the business in 2019, where she continues Sue's work while making her own mark. Jen is a true country soul, and in her free time loves camping, boating, gardening, and taking nature rides. Her soaps are full of love, and so is her story. Here it is.... I read in a post on Badger & Blade that before joining Mama Bear Soaps you were a teacher looking for a new career. What attracted you to the world of soaps and fragrances? You also said you met Sue Clark at a craft show. Had you started making soaps on your own before you met her?  I spent 17 years as an elementary teacher, primarily teaching 3rd grade. While I truly loved my work, over time it began to feel mentally constricting. Around the same period, I experienced a series of personal losses — my mother, my young stepfather, and soon after, my brother. Those events made me reflect deeply on how short life can be and inspired me to think about how I truly wanted to spend the rest of my life. At the time, I was in charge of organizing the holiday craft fair at my school, which is how I met Sue Clark — the original "Mama Bear." Sue, who had become deaf later in life due to an accident, loved communicating through Facebook. After the craft fair, she reached out to thank me for helping her, and we began exchanging messages. She shared with me that she was looking to retire and was hoping to find someone to take over her soap business. To be honest, I didn’t even know shave soap existed before meeting Sue, and I had never made soap before! Another fun fact — I’ve always been someone who prefers unscented products, which quickly became a running joke between us. After a lot of thought, I decided to take the leap and begin the transition into owning Mama Bear Soaps. My husband and I already had a farm and sold at farmers markets, so adding soaps made sense — especially during seasons when produce was limited. I apprenticed with Sue for five months, learning the craft of soap-making and the day-to-day operations of the business. Thanks to that time together, the transition was smooth, and many customers didn’t even realize the business had changed hands. We shared a lot of laughs during those months, navigating the communication gaps and all the little challenges that came with them. Mama Bear Soaps was founded in 2008, and I officially took over in 2019. It has always been — and continues to be — a small, one-person, handmade business! Felch Michigan seems like a beautiful, but remote place. Are you originally from Felch? What's life like in the Felch area? Felch is located in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and it’s truly a beautiful place. My only complaint is that the winters are a little too long and the summers feel far too short! Outdoor activities are a big part of life here, and the community is very laid-back — everyone knows everyone. I’m originally from Ohio, but I moved to Felch when I was 20 after getting married, as my husband’s family lived up here. On your website you sell some products from your farm. How do you split your time between the farm and Mama Bear Soaps? Slagle’s Family Farm is a first-generation farm that my husband and I started in 2008. We began as a small operation, attending local farmers markets to earn a little extra income for our young family of three children (who are now 25, 22, and 18!). Over the years, we have grown into a well-established farm with a wide range of offerings. In the spring, we operate a greenhouse featuring over 150 different plants, all started from seed right here on the farm. We also grow a variety of produce, raise animals, create homemade food items in our commercial kitchen, offer a Pick-Your-Own Pumpkin Patch in the fall, handcraft wooden items, and maintain a storefront for customers to shop locally. Mama Bear Soaps is not large enough to stand alone as a full-time business, but it has been a wonderful addition to what we offer at Slagle’s Family Farm. Did Sue teach you her soap and fragrance making techniques? What process do you use to make soap? Is it melt and pour? Hot or cold process? Do you make your base for the soap and fragrances? Have you made changes to the process since taking over? Sue taught me everything I needed to know to take over the soap business. As I mentioned earlier, I had never made soap before stepping into this role. Mama Bear Soaps uses the melt-and-pour method, which Sue always believed created a more consistent and reliable product. I’ve kept all of her original offerings and recipes, as they are what longtime customers have come to love and expect. In addition, I’ve expanded the product line by adding hand soap, goat’s milk soap, shave oil, and some of our farm products to the website — while still staying true to the quality and spirit of Mama Bear Soaps. Your soaps are unique from most other artisans in that they seem to have a higher glycerin content. What are the benefits of having 20% glycerin in a shave soap? What’s your philosophy on what makes a good shave soap? A good shave soap should lather up easy, feel slick, and leave your skin better than it found it. I make glycerin shave soap, and it’s all about that rich, effortless lather — no wrestling with it. Just a little water, a few swirls, and you're good to go. It’s slick enough that your razor glides like it knows where it’s headed. Plus, glycerin naturally pulls moisture into your skin, so you’re left feeling hydrated, not dried out. Scent’s a big part of shave soap too — or sometimes, no scent at all. Everyone’s got their own taste when it comes to fragrance, and honestly, my unscented soap is one of my best sellers. I put a lot of work into keeping it truly unscented, which isn’t easy when you’re surrounded by a hundred different scents. End of the day, good shave soap should make your shave smoother, easier, and just a better experience overall. What have been some of the challenges you’ve experienced since taking over the business from Sue? What changes have you made to the business and the product line? I’d say the biggest challenge has been dealing with the changes fragrance companies make, especially with cologne scents. New government safety regulations keep coming out, and that forces changes to the formulas. So even if a scent’s been the same for years, people can definitely notice when it shifts. Honestly, I was lucky — Sue was an incredible teacher. When I bought the business, I took over everything: her email, website, Amazon page — the whole thing — so the transition stayed smooth. Many people never even knew the business changed hands. Even after the sale, Sue stayed in touch and was always there to answer any questions I had. Sadly, she passed away unexpectedly this past fall. It’s tough, because she loved this business and cared so much about her customers. If you knew Sue, you knew how much she loved chatting with everyone online, especially late at night. I’ve kept all of her original products going, but I’ve also added some new ones — like liquid hand soap, goat’s milk soap, shave oil, kids’ soaps, and some farm items too. I’ve expanded the women’s line quite a bit as well. Sue mainly offered floral scents for women, but with more women getting into wet shaving, I felt it was important to offer a wider variety. It’s been a big part of growing the business and honoring what she built. Many of your fragrances are homages to designer fragrances, but many are also original. When you design an original scent, where do you get your inspiration? In your mind, what makes a great fragrance?  To be honest — like I mentioned earlier — I’m mostly an unscented person. I won’t even let my husband wear cologne! I’ve kept all of Sue’s original cologne scents, and most of the new cologne scents I carry now are ones customers specifically asked for. Personally, if it’s not unscented, I lean toward more natural scents and essential oils, so I’ve added a lot more of those options over time. At the end of the day, it’s hard to say what makes a "great" fragrance, because it’s such a personal thing — it’s all about where a scent takes your mind and the memories it stirs up. You have a very unique take on aftershaves. Why have you chosen to make them alcohol free? Also, why do you offer a “summer” and “winter” version? Why have you chosen the specific ingredients that you use, such as Hyaluronic Acid, Biotin, Chamomile Hydrosol, and Pearl Croix? Lastly, why have you chosen to make them “scent” optional? I’m a very small business, usually just a few orders a day, so it’s easy for me to accommodate special requests from customers. All of the ingredients and formulations come straight from Sue — I simply learned them from her. She put a lot of care into creating high-quality products and I continue on the tradition, and they really do work wonderfully. I personally use the aftershave balm as my daily moisturizer — it’s that good! I offer both a summer and a winter version of the balm to suit different skin types and climates. It can get down to -20 degrees here in the winter, and between the cold and the wood heat, I definitely need the extra moisture from the winter formula. But if I lived somewhere hot and humid like Texas, I’m pretty sure I’d be a summer or menthol girl all the way. What are your most popular soaps and fragrances? When it comes to online sales, Aged Spice Shave Soap is by far the most popular — it’s definitely the top seller. Other customer favorites are Unscented, Awakenings, Lemon Ice, Ye Olde Barbershoppe, and Dragon’s Blood. In my storefront, though, it’s a little different. The local favorites tend to be the cherry almond and raspberry cocoa butter soaps — people around here can’t seem to get enough of them. If you had a message to share with all the Wet Shavers out there what would it be? I quickly learned why Sue loved her customers so much — the wetshaving community is such a caring and generous group of people. I look forward to continuing to provide great customer service and fulfilling special order requests. I’m excited for the future as I expand my soap business to meet new demands while maintaining the traditions that brought us here. My goal as a soapmaker is to add a tallow shave soap within the year. Thank you all for your support of Mama Bear Soaps — I truly appreciate each and every one of you!  Jen Mama Bear & Jason Slagle

Mark Albert is a passionate practitioner of the traditional wet shave, a fragrance connoisseur and an aspiring soap maker. He lives in upstate New York where he spent most of his career as a technology consultant. When he's not at work or with family, his hobbies include martial arts, firefighting, SCUBA diving, cooking, travel, and of course, all things shaving. He has been studying soap making for about a year and was gracious enough to share some of his passion, experience and knowledge with ShaveSplash. Without further ado, here's Mark.... How long have you been a collector of shaves soaps and fragrances? I’ve always liked nice fragrances, but I didn’t really start my shaving soap journey until an on-line friend of mine in the wet-shaving community started sharing his journey and experiences last year. What drew you to the hobby and what is it you enjoy most about fragrances and shave soaps? Fragrances and soaps are sensory experiences – like food, and I love to cook.  One can always go to a restaurant for a great meal, but sometimes its nice to be able to make a special dish on your own.  The same is true for soaps.  A few weeks back, I wanted a soap with similar properties to the famous Martin de Candre (MdC).  I did a bit of research, and voila.  I had a soap that exploded on the brush with a rich, bubbly lather.  I then thought, maybe I’d like those same properties, but with a bit more glide.  I messed with the recipe a bit and…mission accomplished. Fragrances are similar, but there is much more to learn to get good at it, plus, you need a really good nose. What are the qualities you prize most in a shave soap? First, a good soap needs to make bubbles that will allow the lather to retain its structure consistently across the shave. Next, it needs a bit of cushion.  I tend to like a creamy consistency, something approaching almost a dense, whipped cream texture.  When applied, it should make your face feel like it being caressed by the brush. When shaving, the razor should be able to easily get at the skin, but the lather should dampen the razor so that minor changes in pressure and angle don’t cause nicks or weepers Third is glide.  I’m actually surprised at how many soaps overlook this property, as to me, it’s the most important part of the soap.  If I’m shaving with a lather that is properly hydrated and I’m getting -any- sort of ‘vacuum’ or friction effect, that soap is not getting replaced.  I constantly read stories about experienced shavers complaining that their “angle specific razors” cause friction because the razor completely clear away all of the soap.  If so, then the soap is not properly engineered for that razor. Fourth is the fragrance.  I go back and forth on this.  Sometimes, I like to have a soap that has a fragrance oil that matches an EDC/EDT/EDP that I like.  Sometimes, I like to go with something totally different.  Lastly is post-shave feel/skin conditioning.  In the winter, I like a soap that has a healthy amount of light oils that permeate the skin and keep it moist.  I also like to add a little something that locks the moisture in, but doesn’t feel overly sticky or waxy.  In the summer, I don’t really need all that moisturizing and skin protection.  Come late spring, I want to feel clean and refreshed.  Nothing more.   How do you go about selecting which fragrance and shave soap to wear on any given day? Do you tend to wear aftershaves, EDTs, EDPs, or all of them? Do you try to match soap fragrances and aftershave/cologne fragrances? I can be pretty capricious in terms of the actual fragrance, but not in terms of my layering process…Hot water towel wrap, pre-shave, shave soap or cream, shave…alum (if needed), witch hazel (lightly scented), a light balm with hyaluronic acid, a bit of a blend of oils and nut butters I’ve created (without fragrance), and finally, fragrance. If I’m using a shave soap with a fragrance oil based on an EDP I like, I’ll pair them together. If not, I’ll go a-la-carte. I don’t typically make or buy shaving soaps that overpower me with fragrance. Once I wash them off, the fragrance is mostly gone. More typically, my selection of EDT/EDP is based on my mood. I typically favor fragrances for one or more of the following dominant characteristics: Citrus, Amber Accord or Oud. At what point did you think you might try your hand at creating your own soaps and fragrances? Once I realized I could do it without blowing up my kitchen, I gave it a try.  Once the try was successful, I tried again.  Then, I went “all-in”. How did you acquire the knowledge to design, formulate and produce your first shave soap? Where did you get the ingredients? I started by asking friends in the know.  Then, I watched on-line videos and participated in on-line communities.  Now, my research is more about chemistry than recipes.  As to vendors, there are many on-line craft suppliers that focus on candle, soap, and fragrance supplies.  I buy from several sources.  High quality essential oils is the trickiest – and the most expensive part of the hobby. Tell us a little bit about the soap making process. Keeping it really simple, most shaving soaps are based on a few fats/oils (for a first batch, start with a combination of oils that are inexpensive and effective together, like Lard, coconut oil and castor oil), lye, water and fragrance:  In a crock pot, you melt the fats (ratios and weights are important.  You’ll need a scale and measuring cups).  In a separate vessel, you take some distilled water, add your lye (a combination of potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide – again, measurements are important, and you need to get the ratios of the two lye’s right for the fats you are using.  Not to worry, there are free on-line calculators for that) and stir.  When the oil is melted and the lye is dissolved, you gently and slowly pour the lye water into the oil and stir.  You keep stirring until the mixture turns into a texture akin to petroleum jelly, and the PH is correct. At this point you can stir in glycerin.  Let it get a bit cooler, and you stir in fragrance.  Pour it into molds, let it cure for a couple of months, and…soap. What is your advice for someone who would like to try their hand at the soap making hobby? Do you like to cook?  It’s a lot like that, but you’ll need to wear goggles and wear rubber gloves. What is your plan for the future? I have a bunch of essential oils in my basement calling my name.  I already have a shave soap for the summer as well as for the fall.  I may make something rich, slick and creamy, with notes of Amber and Oud for next winter.

To understand soap making, one must first understand soap itself. Soap is a salt.   The soap molecule has two sides and is shaped like a tadpole. The head sticks to water (hydrophilic), and the tail repels water and attracts oil (hydrophobic). It is a type of molecule known as amphiphilic, whose Greek roots mean “Both” (Amphi) and “Attract” (Philic). Water alone can’t wash away oil on your skin because water doesn’t mix with oil. Soap acts like an adhesive tape which binds water to the oil allowing it to be washed away. Soap molecules surround the oil droplet by attaching their tails and forming a Micelle. Once the oil droplet is fully encased with the water loving heads facing outward, the water can bind to it and wash it away. The soap molecules encapsulate the oil droplet The tails stick to oil because of their similar composition which allows them to attract. This is why soap is made from fat and is essentially a hybrid molecule consisting of fat on one side (hydrophobic) and salt on the other (hydrophilic). The two basic ingredients of soap are Triglycerides (fats) and Lye, also known as Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). Simply put, when Lye is added to fat like olive oil, coconut oil, or tallow (beef fat), the Triglyceride molecule breaks into 3 fatty acids and picks up a Sodium (Na) atom to form a new molecule called Soap, a Fatty Salt. This process is known as  Saponification. A natural byproduct is Glycerin, a clear slippery substance which can be added back for slickness, and also is a humectant which attracts and retains water and is thought to soften and moisturize the skin. Two processes have developed over time for making soap: The Cold and Hot Processes. Cold Process The oils (Olive, Coconut, Palm) or fats (Tallow) are mixed with Lye at room temperature. For Saponification to take place the mixture must usually cure for 4-6 weeks until hard. One of the key characteristics is that the glycerin stays inside the soap adding softening and moisturizing properties. Hot Process The mixture is cooked which speeds up saponification. The soap can be used as soon as it’s cooled, although 1-2 weeks of curing is recommended to allow for hardening and improved lather. Another advantage is the glycerin can be removed by salting the mixture which causes the soap to float to the surface where it can be removed.   Hot Versus Cold Process Soap Manufacturing The Marseille Hot Process The most famous of the hot soap making processes is the Marseille Hot Process, which was developed in Southern France in the Middle Ages. By the 17th century, Marseille’s proximity to olive oil from Provence and sea salt from the Mediterranean made it the soap capital of France where it developed a process whereby pure olive oil was cooked for days in large cauldrons then purified of glycerin and other contaminants with sea water. In 1688, Louis XIV’s minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert issued an edict officially protecting the name Marseille Soap (Savon de Marseille) and requiring it be made 100% from oil olive. In 1811, under Napolean Bonaparte, a decree was issued relaxing the 100% olive oil requirement and expanding it to other vegetable oils. In 1906, a chemist named Francois Merklen at the soap maker Savonnerie Charles Roux Fils, wrote a paper establishing the tradition that Savon de Marseille consist of no less than 72% vegetable oil. The Marseille Hot Process Today, most artisan shave soaps use the Hot Process, but not the Marseille Hot Process which removes glycerin needed to retain moisture. Martin de Candre’s shave soaps take inspiration from the Marseille Hot Process, but mainly in the way they are heated, and without being purified with sea water. Saponificio Varesino also claims inspiration from the Marseille Hot Process, but again only in the heating. They also triple mill  their soap, shredding it into flakes and pressing it in steel rollers three times to remove excess moisture and impurities. Milling a soap creates a harder, denser, puck, which tends to last longer.

How are aftershaves and soap fragrances classified? The most common way is by categories known as fragrance families, which are groupings that share common scent notes or even similar themes like aquatic or woody, or even holidays, seasons, activities or places. Sometimes these families have further subtypes which based on the different styles or variations show how a theme might be interpreted in similar yet slightly different ways. With no industry-wide authority to standardize or enforce the categories not everyone agrees on how fragrance categories are defined. The most popular model was put forward in 1983 by Michael Edwards, the famous fragrance expert, which he called the Fragrance Wheel. He envisioned four major families, Floral ,  Oriental  (also known as Amber), Woody , and Fresh , each with 3-4 subtypes.   Here are the major scent notes in each family of the Fragrance Wheel.   Fougère  is another family which is often used to describe fragrances, which in French means “Fern”. The family was created by French perfumer Paul Parquet of house Houbigant who in 1882 introduced the fragrance Fougère Royale, which is considered the prototype and progenitor of all modern Fougère fragrances. Parquet was looking to capture the essence of the forest and blended herbal and woody notes with a powdery, sweet base to create a fresh, green, and earthy scent. He was the first to incorporate coumarin, which became a defining scent note of Fougère fragrances. Today, Fougère fragrances continue to be fresh, aromatic and green and are generally expected to include lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss, but often include citrus notes, herbaceous notes, and tonka bean. Modern examples of Fougère fragrances include Martin de Candre’s “Fougère” shave soap, Bleu De Chanel, Dior Sauvage, and Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. Most Barbershop fragrances are either Fougères or closely related, with classic examples including Barrister & Mann’s Seville, Proraso Green, and PAA’s Gondolier. Chypre , French for “Cyprus”, is another fragrance family which is a close cousin of Fougère and sometimes classified as a Fougère subtype. The fragrance is thought to date back to antiquity. Its defining characteristic is the use of labdanum which is native to Cyprus. Labdanum is the sticky resin of the Rockrose plant (Cistus Ladanifer), which is renowned for its deep, warm, complex, and sensual aroma. The modern Chypre fragrance profile was redefined in 1917 by Francois Coty with the launch of a perfume simply named “Chypre”, which included a citrus top note of bergamot and lemon with oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli in the base, and became the archetype for later modern Chypre fragrances. Modern examples of Chypre scents include Barrister & Mann’s Le Grand Chypre, Razorock’s The Dead Sea, and Epsilon’s Blue Mediterranean. Other families are sometimes used to describe fragrances which don’t fit the classic categories mentioned above. Some examples include: Gourmand:  edible profiles with key notes including vanilla, chocolate, caramel, honey, almond, coffee, tobacco, or even prepared dishes or desserts. Examples include Ariana & Evan’s Baklava, Tom Fords’ Tabacco Vanille, or PAA’s Cane. Holiday : typically scent themes relating to Christmas or other major holidays. Scent notes include Pine, Sandalwood, Clove, Cinnamon, ginger and others. Examples include Catie’s Bubbles Christmas Forest, Dr. Jon’s Christmas Eve, and Stirling’s Candy Cane. Seasonal:  these fragrances try to evoke a time of year. Fall scents tend to have notes of wet leaves, pumpkin, woods, and spices. Summer scents focus on floral and grassy notes. Examples include Stirling’s Autumn Glory, B&M Season of the Witch, PAA Ciderhouse 5, Stirling’s Margarita’s in the Arctic, and Seaforth Sea Spiced Lime. On ShaveSplash, all of these families and subtypes are used to categorize aftershaves and shave soaps to give a sense of their notes and themes.

Will Carius is a master perfumer and soap maker and the founder of Barrister & Mann. His company has created iconic scents such as Seville, Le Grand Chypre, and Waves, and his Omnibus soap base is renowned for its density and slickness. ShaveSplash was lucky enough to get the opportunity to dive inside his creative mind. Without further ado…Will Carius… What do you love about the study and creation of fragrances? I’m not a particularly visual person. I’m only a passable photographer, horrendous with any kind of drawing implement, brush, or chisel, and have never been moved by a static visual work of art in my life (films being a different category). It’s just not how I’m wired. But the attraction of perfumery is twofold: a) I get to study something that very few people understand, which is a fun way of “looking under the hood” of reality in a way that not many people get to do, and b) fragrance has the power to move us in unexpected ways, ways that don’t necessarily occur to people when they generally consider “art.” And I love having the ability and opportunity to work with an unexpected medium and create things that people love.   Can you remember the first fragrance you fell in love with? What made you fall in love with it? I’ve talked about this elsewhere, but I didn’t see my father a lot when I was a kid. He commuted back and forth between Northern New Jersey and Upstate New York, either working for the Home Depot (it was a very different company in the early 90s) or working on private contracting jobs. As a result, he basically lived out of a duffle bag, and I remember the bars of Irish Spring that he used to carry in the plastic soap caddy in that bag. I grew very attached to the fragrance, though I’ve since developed an allergy to it, and they’ve reformulated it several times, so it’s not the same as it once was.   For you, what is the hallmark of a well-constructed fragrance? Jean Carles famously said, “Above all, a perfume must smell good.” I don’t entirely agree with this from an artistic point of view, but, from a commercial standpoint, he was absolutely correct. So I generally consider three things when evaluating a fragrance: 1) Does it smell good? 2) If it doesn’t smell good, is it at least interesting or original in some way? 3) Is it linear? Or does it develop and change based on its evaporation? I hold linear fragrances to a higher standard when it comes to the “smelling good” rule; if it’s not going to change at all, it has to be worth the monotony. A few are. Most are not.   Are there specific scent notes or ingredients that you love to use when making a fragrance? Are there some that you consider “no-no’s”? I consider my work to be fairly smoke-heavy, which I attribute to having grown up with a wood-burning stove as nearly the only heat source in our house. Curiously, I have grown to loathe wood stoves themselves for the smoke and ash and dirt that they produce, but the underlying presence of woodsmoke in everything has left with me the sensation that light touches of smoke can improve quite a number of fragrances. As a result, I incorporate a lot of that thinking into my own work, even if not using materials that are considered traditionally smoky. For those that are verboten, I’ve learned the hard way to avoid things like mandarin aldehyde (the notorious “cilantro” note in War), too much smoke (as in Rome), and filthy musks like Tonquitone and Shangralide, which I love, but which the shaving community as a whole rejects (see Night Music). If I were making perfume exclusively, I might be less averse to that last category, but so many shavers have such a problem with it that I’ve simply laid them aside except in the most gentle of cases (such as the small amount of civet base in Lavender, Interrupted). What is it you are going for when you design a new fragrance? What is your objective and where do you draw inspiration? It depends very much on what I’m trying to accomplish. With the Four Horsemen, for example, there was a lot of thematic overlay: each fragrance was built on the central structure that made up Death, but each one had to epitomize the other three Horsemen without allowing the set to smell too similar. But I’m typically trying to evoke an impression of some kind. I know that I said above that I’m not particularly visual, but I am very interested in and fond of color, and consider many of my fragrances to represent one or more colors. As for inspiration, I draw it from everywhere. If something interests me, I consider the possibility of how it might be rendered in fragrance. It can come from historical figures, mythology, Golden Age classics, film, literature, music, places, whatever. When it comes to fragrances, how would you describe your “signature style’? "Weird.” Some people seem to think that that’s a result of incompetence, but I’ve always been up-front about the fact that I am very much trying to push the bounds of what we think of when we think of scent. Much though I love and have an affinity for Golden Age perfumery and the great masterpieces, when I work on my own, I’m trying to put together something that has never been done before, or, if it has, that has never been done in the specific manner in which I want to do it. Can you tell us a little bit about how you personally use fragrances in your everyday life? Do you frequently wear aftershave or cologne? How do you choose what to wear and when? I’m in production so frequently these days that I almost never wear fragrance anymore. Anything I wear would be subsumed by the scent of whatever I’m making, and I joke that I carry the smell of a fragrance lab wherever I go. It’s in my skin, my hair, my clothing, etc. But, when I DO wear fragrances, I wear whatever strikes my fancy for that occasion. Every fragrance in my collection has earned the right to be there, and I do not buy or keep things that I consider anything less than exceptional. For example, my favorite modern scents include Zoologist Civet (Shelley Waddington’s buttery-smooth masterpiece), MDCI Invasion Barbare (quite possibly the greatest fougère in current production, and Stefanie Bakouche’s crowning achievement), and Imaginary Authors O, Unknown! (which, when it was released, I declared to be Josh Meyer’s first great work). Each is special, each unique, each utterly peerless. I believe in developing your own tastes and loves, rather than wearing whatever’s the current best-seller, or whatever you think will get you laid, or phoning it in for just some clean, bloodless thing with no personality and no statement. Fragrances reflect who we are in a way that very few other things can. I believe in making a statement. Out of curiosity, can you tell us a bit about your shaving routine? What kind of razors, blades, balms, and other accessories do you like to use? These days, my shaving routine is extremely simple. Nine times out of ten, it will be a synthetic brush and whatever Barrister and Mann soap I happen to have on hand (sometimes it’s something I’m testing, sometimes it’s just a jar left over from production), either an Alumigoose V2 with a Feather SoftGuard blade or a Proof razor with a PermaSharp, and whatever splash is currently sitting on my bathroom counter. If I opt to get a little fancier, I might use soap from another artisan (House of Mammoth and Noble Otter remain perennial favorites), or even a mass-produced cream like Speick or Palmolive. In the winter, I apply either my own Unscented balm or Myrsol Emulsion, for which I have retained a certain fondness over the years. In your mind, what makes a good shave soap? Lubricity and density. I dislike high-structure soaps like Cella, which I feel have too much coconut oil, and instead favor the slickest, densest soaps I can find. That’s largely how Omnibus got to be what it is: the relentless pursuit of those two qualities to the utmost degree. I generally like to see a true soap (as opposed to synthetic detergents, though there are certain exceptions to this) and dislike pigments like micas and titanium dioxide, which I consider utterly unnecessary. What was your thought process in designing the Omnibus base? What were you going for? What do you think are some of the standout ingredients that make it special? As I mentioned previously, it was largely designed based on the relentless pursuit of lubricity and density, though post-shave and latherability played a major role as well. It’s the only shaving soap formula that I have ever put through consumer testing, and it took eight rounds of testing (and, overall, nearly 70 prototypes) to get it to where I wanted it. At the end of the day, the only thing that truly mattered was aggregate shave quality. The testing was done completely blind, and I averaged everything based on average ratings for a number of different factors. If one thing suffered during one test, then I worked to improve it on the next one. As for materials in particular, there are three that I consider exceptionally special: Cupuaçu butter, which I used to replace lanolin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the same lubricant used in KY Jelly (I’ve shaved with various brands of lube more than I’d like to consider) and Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid, sold under the trade name RheoCare HSP 1180, which is a biodegradable anionic polymer that contributes heavily to both the post-shave feel and to the overall lubricity of the lather. Honestly, it was the idea that I could begin adding specific lubricants that really took Omnibus above and beyond what we had done before, and I firmly believe that many soaps fall down on slickness because their makers trust a class of compounds that specifically acts to lessen the presence of oil and other lubricating agents, that being soap molecules themselves, to serve as the primary lubricant. What do you love most about wet shaving and the wet shaving community? Conversely, if there is one thing you could change, and you had unlimited resources, what would it be? Wet shaving’s primary benefit for me was always that it improved my skin and the quality of my shaves. That hasn’t changed. And I appreciate that it has gotten men to take better care of their skin, sparked interest in fragrance (including my own such obsession), and try to cut down on their environmental impacts, however minor those may be. But the wet shaving community, like most hobby communities, is rife with politics, cults of personality, infighting, drama, and other such nonsense. Have I, at times, been part and party to this? Absolutely. Would I excise it in a heartbeat if I could? You bet your ass. Will Carius

Here at ShaveSplash we’ve noticed shave soaps tend to produce four types of lather: textured, structured, creamy and yogurty. Many things impact the lather’s structure, the most obvious being water, its hardness, and how much is used. Ingredients will also have an impact, and not just which, but how much and in what proportion. The Most Common Shave Soap Ingredients As to how much water should be used? The answer isn’t simple as different soaps require different amounts to reach their maximum volume. Also, some shavers will prefer to make copious amounts of lather, while others not so much. At ShaveSplash, we load the brush for about 30 seconds and use 1-2 tablespoons of water. But the key is whatever the amount of soap or water it’s all about getting the lather to reach its maximum volume. Yogurty Yogurty Lather Yogurty lathers are wet and dense. When the soap reaches its maximum volume, it will be smooth, easy to apply and spread, and very moist. Creamy Creamy Lather Creamy lathers take on the appearance of melted ice cream. They are slightly less dense and wet than a yogurty lather, but also very smooth and easy to apply and spread. Structured Structured Lather Structured lathers are similar to the shaving cream one might see from a spray can. They tend to have more volume than creamy or yogurty lather, be stiffer, and hold their shape better. Structured lathers can also be quite dense, and the higher volume tends to aid cushion, although they may be slighter more difficult to apply and spread with a brush. Textured Textured Lather Textured lathers tend to have an uneven consistency throughout the lather, sometimes having an appearance like oatmeal or cottage cheese. These lathers can also be quite dense, with excellent cushion, and the application and spread may or may not be effected by the structure. Conclusion There is no right or wrong, good or bad, when it comes to lather. It all comes down to personal preference, and each of the four structures has positive and negative attributes. Wet shavers live by the rule, your mileage may vary (YMMV). Simply put, what works for you may not work for me. To each, his own. Happy shaving!

Like all aspects of culture, popular fragrance trends evolve over time. Many things bring about these changes, some sudden and catalytic, others gradual and diffuse. Changes in society, such as gender roles, religion, or shifting political borders can have an impact on norms and cultural mores. Economic fluctuations can shift status or class structure or make resources scarce or abundant. Technological and scientific breakthroughs can make new processes and ingredients available or lower the cost of manufacture. Over the last 400 years, men’s fragrances have gone through three distinct eras which were defined by specific scent accords, Citrusy and Floral in the 18th and 19th century, Woodsy and Herbal (Fougères) in the 20th century, and a collection of New Fruits in the 20th century. The journey of modern men’s cologne begins in of all places, Cologne! In 1709, an Italian perfumer living in Cologne, Germany, named Giovanni Maria Farina introduced a citrusy, floral fragrance which he dubbed “Eau de Cologne”. Of the scent, he said “I have created a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain.” The scent was light, fresh, and citrus-forward, with a strongly floral element built around jasmine and violet. It was one of the first alcohol-based perfumes and was seen not just as a fragrance but a tonic, a hygiene product to clean the hands and body, and yes, an aftershave. It ushered in a new age in men’s fragrances. Eau de Cologne was wildly popular and worn throughout the royal courts of Europe. Even Napoléon Bonaparte was said to carry a bottle in his boots. It influenced countless perfumes which followed, including 4711 introduced in 1792, and many modern interpretations including Acqua di Parma Colonia (1916) and Dior’s Eau Sauvage (1966). Today, Farina’s fragrance company is still in operation and the world’s oldest fragrance company. As testimony to the revolutionary power of his fragrance, all men’s perfumes are now referred to as “Colognes”. Houbigant Perfumery in Paris 1882 It wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that a new trend in men’s fragrances emerged when in 1882 a perfumer named Paul Parquet who worked at the prominent Parisian perfumery Houbigant created Fougère Royale. Fougère means “Fern” in French and Parquet created a scent which was green and forest-like by introducing two new ingredients which hadn’t been used before, coumarin and oakmoss. Coumarin is an organic compound with a sweet, hay-like, vanilla and almond aroma. Although it occurs naturally in tonka beans and other plants, it must be synthesized and is therefore considered the first synthetic ingredient used in perfumes. Oakmoss provided a damp and earthy scent, which added richness and depth, with a distinctly green and woodsy character. The introduction of Fougère Royale was a seminal event in the evolution of the men’s fragrances which up until that point had been dominated by Citrusy-Floral accords. Its wild popularity spawned a wave of similar scents which employed the basic architecture of lavender, coumarin (or Tonka Bean), and oakmoss, and over time collectively came to be known as Fougères. Early examples including Guerlain Jicky (1889), Penhaligon’s English Fern (1910), and Yardley English Lavender (1913).   In the 1930s, a variation of the Fougère emerged which introduced powdery and spicy notes, and possibly due to affordability and availability became known as Barbershop scents. In 1934, Caron released an early take on a Barbershop called Pour un Homme which blended vanilla with lavender and tonka bean for a powdery, clean aroma. In 1936, Dana followed with a slightly spicier take, which employed sage, carnation, geranium and vanilla. Then in 1937, the Shulton Company upped the spice quotient and released what became one of the defining scents of the Barbershop genre, Old Spice, which brought in anise, cinnamon, nutmeg, pimento, and benzoin to create an intensely masculine, fresh, bouquet. . Not long after, another iconic scent was released sometime in the 1940s by the American affiliate of Pinaud called Clubman, a mossy, powdery, vanilla Fougère which today is maybe most associated with vintage barbershop scents. Many barbershop Fougères followed, some of the most notable including Tabac (1959), Brut (1964), and Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973). Fougères maintained their hold on men’s fragrances through most of the 1970s and 1980s with popular fragrances including Polo by Ralph Lauren (1978), Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche (1982), and Creed’s Green Irish Tweed (1985). It wasn’t until the 1990s, that a new trend emerged where notes of previously unused fruits began to be introduced which turned fragrances away from the intense herbal greenness of a classic Fougère, making them rounder, sweeter, and lighter. An era of New Fruit fragrances began. Examples of the New Fruit movement include Calvin Klein’s CK One (1994) which introduced papaya and pineapple and was sweet enough to be billed as unisex. In the same year, Issey Miyake launched L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme which introduced Yuzu, another sweet and exotic fruit. In 1995, Creed’s Silver Mountain Water brought in the use of Blackcurrant, and in 1996, Armani launched the iconic Acqua di Gio which introduced lime, mandarin orange, peach, and aquatic notes. Hugo Boss harnessed Apple notes in 1998 with Hugo Boss Bottled. The “new fruit” movement continued to gain strength through the 2000s with major hits including Dolce and Gabbana’s Light Blue (2001), which used mandarin orange and grapefruit, Hermes Terre d’Hermes (2006), a mainly orange accord, and Paco Rabanne 1 Million (2008), which leaned heavily on grapefruit. Then in 2010 one of the most iconic men’s fragrances of the 21st century was created, Creed Aventus, which used both blackcurrant and pineapple, becoming the benchmark for modern luxury men’s fragrances up to the current day. Men’s fragrances will surely continue to evolve as tastes change and new trends emerge. As to what will define the next era and pick up from the Citrus-Floral scents of the 18th and 19th century, Fougères of the 20th century, and New Fruits in the 21st century, we'll just have to wait and see.